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Dr Martens: A shoe made like no other, with music and rebel culture at the heart of the brand!
by VASILIS GIDARIS
on
Sep 06, 2023
An iconic story of rebellious self-expression & unique team spirit!
Dr Martens, also known today as Doc Martens or Docs, appeals to those authentic human characters who have their own individual style but share a common spirit of life. People who have a proud sense of self-expression and like to be different.
Footwear for statement makers, now characterised by an air-cushioned sole, upper shape, welted construction, yellow stitching and unique sole pattern. The Dr Martens design studio is based in London, but manufacturing takes place in the UK and many other Asian countries, making millions of people happy like perhaps no other shoe in the world. Shoes made for every season to stand the test of time.
But it wasn't always like this. Let's explore how a once humble, utilitarian gardening boot became one of the most culturally relevant brands of the modern era.
Dr Martens boots were originally designed by Klaus Martens, a doctor in the German army during the Second World War, who simply wanted to design a more comfortable pair of boots after injuring his ankle. Through continual design improvements and the use of soft leather materials and air-cushioned soles, he and his business partner succeeded in creating an innovative and comfortable product with improved design and anatomy. The first product, born out of tradition and authenticity, was a great success with people looking for comfort and differentiation, and 80% of the first sales were made to older women.
Sales grew rapidly and by 1959 the company was looking to market its shoes internationally. Almost immediately, the British shoe manufacturer R. Griggs Group bought the patent rights and began manufacturing the revolutionary shoes in the UK under the name "Dr Martens". The British company, with tradition and experience in footwear since 1901, slightly redesigned the heel for a better fit, added the trademark yellow stitching and trademarked the soles as AirWair. The first Dr Martens boots in the UK, introduced in April 1960, with an eight-eye cherry red smooth leather design, known as style 1460, are still in production today, albeit in many variations. The boots became popular with workers such as postmen, policemen and factory workers and were advertised overseas. By the late 1960s they were worn by skinheads, known as 'Docs' or 'DMs', and by the late 1970s they were popular with scooterists, punks, some new wave musicians and members of other youth subcultures. Following the unprecedented wave of change, new ideas, cultural upheaval and ultimately social revolution of the era, Dr Martens became not only an icon of comfort and durability, but also a cultural icon that went against the norm, a symbol of self-expression at the heart of international youth culture and music. Throughout the 80s and 90s, Dr Martens shoes continued to be popular with girls and rock stars, and conquered new market niches such as the American music scene. In 1994, the company opened its first six-storey flagship store in London and became popular with many new music cultures such as grunge and nu-metal. The brand also became synonymous with festival culture and music. Shortly after 2000, sales dropped so dramatically that all but one of its UK factories had to be closed to avoid bankruptcy. Then, in 2003, the revival of the famous brand began, with high fashion designers from around the world reinterpreting and customising the classic 1460 boot. In 2007, the revival continued when the original factory in Northampton resumed production of handmade Dr Martens Originals.
In the age of the global village and social media, every aspect of youth culture and subcultural style has changed. Yet diverse individuals, fans and subcultures still champion Dr Martens, attracted by its unique alternative appeal and authenticity in a world of homogeneity. For over seven decades, we have seen the brand embraced by a wide range of tribes, celebrities, musicians and free-thinkers - each subverting and twisting the boots and shoes to suit their own personal needs, attitudes and identities.
On a stylistic level, Dr Martens' simple silhouettes allow wearers to adopt the boots and shoes as part of their own individual and highly distinctive style; on a practical level, their renowned durability and comfort make them ideal for the unforgiving world of gigging and street fashion; and finally, on an emotional level, they are a badge of attitude and empowerment.